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Chanel: The Vocabulary of Style, by Jérôme Gautier
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Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (1883-1971) was undoubtedly the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. Her clothes and accessories have remained perennially chic, and her legendary fashion house continues to exert a powerful sway over today's designers. Jérôme Gautier tells the story of Chanel's iconic style through hundreds of images, many taken by the leading lights of fashion photography, including Richard Avedon, Gilles Bensimon, Patrick Demarchelier, Horst P. Horst, Annie Leibovitz, Man Ray, Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, and Ellen von Unwerth. This innovative volume pairs classic and contemporary photographs, placing fashion plates from Chanel's time alongside those by the house's designer-in-chief, Karl Lagerfeld. For instance, Cecil Beaton's portrait of Chanel appears alongside Lagerfeld's image of Cate Blanchett emulating her, and a classic plate by Henry Clarke flanks an arresting shot by Juergen Teller.
Through these dazzling photographs, Chanel: The Vocabulary of Style identifies key elements that have defined Chanel's style for generations, such as jersey and tweed, formerly considered menswear fabrics, and the little black dress, which transformed a hue previously reserved for mourning into a statement of elegance. Pearls were her staple, and she often embellished outfits with her signature camellia. Eleven chapters compare the original forms of these enduring trademarks with their later expressions over the years and to the present day, letting the vocabulary of Chanel's style speak for itself.
- Sales Rank: #34910 in Books
- Brand: Yale University Press
- Published on: 2011-11-29
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 13.10" h x 1.52" w x 10.00" l, 5.72 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 304 pages
Review
“This elegant, beautifully designed volume features hundreds of photographs, both classic and contemporary, often shot by photographers who are themselves legendary.”—Globe & Mail (Globe & Mail)
About the Author
Jérôme Gautier is a journalist and fashion historian. A passionate collector of fashion magazines, he lives and works in Paris.
Most helpful customer reviews
114 of 115 people found the following review helpful.
Mostly Lagerfeld
By macmccat
I received this as a requested gift and although it features some beautiful photography, I'm disappointed and annoyed--because I think it's being marketed in a way that would have you believe it's about Coco Chanel--but it's really not. What it does is give her some lip service with a smattering of photos. The balance--roughly 75%--is about Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel magazine ads from the 90's & 2000"s; which I've already been bombarded with for the past 20 years.
I'm interested in fashion history from the early 20th century and wanted a biography / historical timeline of Coco Chanel's collections and was hoping for a substantial coffee table book featuring ONLY that. Does such a thing exist? Or must every recent publication pay homage to Lagerfeld? I'm asking because I'd love a tried and true recommendation if anyone has one.
70 of 71 people found the following review helpful.
Chanel through the eyes of the greatest fashion photographers
By TVDIVA
Jérôme Gautier (a Paris based journalist and fashion historian), has created a sumptuous ode to Chanel via the greatest fashion photographers who ever lived.
Similar in format to Daniele Bott's Chanel: Collections and Creations, Gautier takes eleven key Chanel style elements and juxtaposes the original forms of the trademarks with current day innovations, letting Chanel's enduring style speak for itself.
Each chapter contains a brief history of the key style element and gorgeous archived and contemporary fashion photographs of models and celebrities:
Chapter 1: The Body Liberated - Chanel's fashions liberate women from corsets
Chapter 2: Little Black Dresses - The LBD and its place in fashion history
Chapter 3: Black into Night - Dresses go to ankle length for day, brushing the floor at night - black is no longer just for mourning
Chapter 4: Baroque Inspirations -Chanel is introduced to Venice by Misia - "queen of modern Baroque"
Chapter 5: 31, Rue Cambon - Chanel buys the building and adds surrounding properties to create Maison Chanel
Chapter 6: Youth and Evolution - Chanel's life - fact and fiction
Chapter 7: Simple Chic - The enduring appeal of Chanel hats
Chapter 8: Androgyne - Chanel creates clothes based on the comfort men enjoy
Chapter 9: From Tweed to Tweeds - Chanel's enduring corded tweed suit
Chapter 10: The Total Look - Accessorizing with Chanel
Chapter 11: Rebel - Chanel Fashion as defiant as the woman herself
At the end of the book is a legend to each fashion photograph. The photographer, model or celebrity, Chanel collection the item came from, magazine or book where it first appeared are all documented.
This book comes in a beautiful pink hardcover slipcase, measures 9 ½ by 12 5/8, contains 211 gorgeous color and black & white illustrations and weighs in at six pounds.
I also recommend:
Chanel: Collections and Creations by Danièle Bott - The book explores five central themes--the suit, the camellia, jewelry, makeup and perfume, the little black dress--and follows the threads from past to present to show how these key items have been rediscovered and reinvented by new designers.
Jacques Helleu & Chanel by Jacques Helleu - Jacques Helleu is the eye behind the House of Chanel's enduring image, having explored the meanings of this legendary brand in daring commercials and fabulous print ads for the past 40 years. He has given tangible, glamorous shape to the essential mystique of Chanel's perfumes. This beautifully designed and lavishly illustrated volume tells the story of Helleu's vision.
20 of 22 people found the following review helpful.
Chanel: The Vocabulary of Style
By Lilly Ford
This is a wonderful book showing a stunning collection of Chanel's creations both from the past and the present along with multiple shots of Coco Chanel.
The book is large and thick full of spectacular photographs both color and b/w showing the pieces at their best.
The book also contains concise chapters detailing the sources of inspiration behind the creation of the illustrated garments, thus, putting the pieces in a wider context.
This is a highly recommended book for all fans of Chanel and beautiful fashion photography.
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